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ROADFOOD.COM cover page review continued ..
But your appetite is like ours – bigger than normal – than you need to know about Santarpio’s bar-b-q. For if this establishment’s reputation rides on pizza, it is bar-b-q that will lure us back again and again. Bar-b-q in Boston? you ask. In this case, “bar-b-q” is not the southern ritual of slow-cooked meat in a metal pit. It refers to meat cooked on a grate over charcoal – lengths of homemade Italian sausage and skewered hunks of lamb, or what Italians know as spiedini. That sausage is spectacular – a long, taut tube with the flavor of the charcoal fire insinuating its succulent, high-spiced insides. Many folks get it as a pre-pizza hors d’oeuvre – one long char-crusted sausage on a plate with hot cherry peppers and some crusty Italian bread. The bar-b-q lamb has a vivid flavor – for lamb-lovers only – and it ranges from a pleasant chew to a serious chaw. Plates of sausage and lamb, with peppers and bread, are the ONLY thing other than pizza on Santarpio’s menu.
The bar-b-q adds immeasurably to Santarpio’s atmosphere. Literally. The meat is cooked on a grill that is just inside the front door, and its wonderful aroma harmonizes with the smell of tomato sauce, cheese, and crust from the pizza ovens in back to make this place the most appetizing bar we’ve ever found. And make no mistake, it is a bar: smoky, raucous, a little unkempt, with boxing posters on the wall and 1960s Motown tunes setting a sassy beat.
Michael Stern, 12/9/2000
Reviewers Ratings:
| Visit Again |
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100% |
| Food |
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100% |
| Atmosphere |
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100% |
| Miles Worth Driving |
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50 Miles | | |
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| 617 567-9871 | 111 Chelsea Street | East Boston, MA 02128 |
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